Відео

I was lucky and didn’t have much rain while I was doing this. However I have seen people leave it for up to a couple of months before rendering and it doesn’t seem to matter. I’d personally be a bit worried about rain getting next to the wall and creating some temporary damp in the walls. However I wouldn’t worry about the insulation as that seems to be able to withstand rain without any problems

@@aktsolar wow thanks so much for the reply mate Hope you have a great weekend

It’s very cheap. You can get them from Ali Express or EBay for about £10.00

​@@aktsolar thanks and what's the name of the pump?

It seemed a lot quicker than here and I have 3 children so couldn’t really afford to spend lots of weekends away

Yes, I love mine. She’s very light and seems to handle and fly very easily. I’ve actually called her Charlotte :)

Thanks a lot for the comment and encouragement. I’m hoping to get a camera with better stabilisation soon - the one I have at the moment is a 10-year old Go-Pro. I’ll also try to make the comments show for a bit longer on any future videos.

This is all post-training experience. The main training was about two weeks in Spain and then just needed one more “soaring” flight to get my CP. After that it’s just been steadily building experience, going out around every two weeks - generally limited by family duties :)

The house here is 1930s solid brick construction with no air gap. I’m not sure about the utility of EWI on cavity walls. I think what people normally do with double-skinned walls with an air gap is to fill the cavity with insulating foam.

Yes, I supported it quite easily by having a joist 1-2 m long to run below the boards at the join and then a long piece of wood going from the floor to the joist to hold the joist up. So the wood fored a sort of T shape with the top of the T at the bottom of the boards and the bottom of the T on the floor. I did one board at a time as I was putting the boards on in vertical strips

@@aktsolar Thanks, I will see if I have anything long enough, and straight, as I'm installing the panels in horizontal runs.

The material alone was about £3,300. That was with expensive insulation though. I could have saved about £1000 with cheaper insulation. It was also about 18 months ago though so may have gone up in price since. Good luck!!!!

I actually supported it very well at the other end where it meets the outside edge of the insulation. I was considering embedding a metal plate in the base coat. But ultimately just used three layers of mesh, the middle one at 45 degrees to the other 2. This supports it very strongly and much better than it was originally so I think I’ll be fine. I hadn’t heard about chrome pipe corroding and will certainly look out for that. Given that it is not exposed though it shouldn’t get damaged so hopefully the chrome will last as long as the house - or at least as long as the insulation does.

Thanks for the advice

It cost about £4000. I could have done it for about £3000 if I’d used cheaper insulation though. And looking at lots of others doing it now (including both my next door neighbours - using contractors) I realise I was doing a really really good job and much better (in terms of adhesive, pin fixings, L-shape boards around all corners of windows and doors, fitting the boards snugly together with no gaps) than the contractors are doing. So if you DIY you’ll get a much better job done!!!

I did the EP at the same time. My impression was the CP was a lot more significant though and needed quite a lot more good weather.

@@aktsolar your video indicated that you didn’t complete both the EP and CP in Algodonales? Just keen to understand how much you progressed in Spain?

@justinf1343 Yes, you need three soaring flights with max 2 on the same day at the same location and as the weather was bad I didn’t manage to do the third in Algo. But you can be “transferred to a coach” for those soaring flights so I could do the last one of them at Rhossili with a coach called Dave / Trigger.

Well, it sounds like you survived!!! My next plan is to get used to my new-to-me glider (a 1991 clubman 160) and learn to do top landings. I think I’ll leave the whip-stalls until some time in the future :)

@@aktsolar I bought a brand new Clubman 160, which I was flying at Rhossili and I went on to fly it for my subsequent 120 hours airtime, during which I broke one site distance record by doubling it. I loved flying the Clubman, with its very quick response to roll inputs, which allowed me to get higher than all the more advanced gliders on many occasions. You couldn't fly at high speed on a glide without losing height, so it wasn't so good for racing but I did once fly an 11 mile X/C on it, all on my own, with no vario (nor other instruments, apart from a small compass).

@NevilleStyke Thanks for this. I’m sure I’m going to love flying this one. I’m not looking for any speed or distance records but good responsive handling and a safe way to get experience sound ideal. I can’t wait to actually fly her now :)

Just to confirm, I have a mayday chute now. I plan to be flying with it from now on :)

I’m not sure what the LiFePO4 settings are but for a Tesla battery like this you don’t want the changer to go above 4.2V for each set of cells (I.e. 4.2x6 = 25.2V in total). I calibrate the charge controller to actually stop before that at about 24.5V so that it would definitely not overcharge the battery. I don’t use a Tesla BMS but use my own battery balancer to ensure the cells are balanced. I hope this helps

Thanks a lot Brian, I often think of your advice and stories - particularly your story about you time in Norway and also the story of your first flight. I can see now why you love flying so much. Thanks for your help :)

My wife would definitely agree :)

Yes, I did pressure wash the walls before sticking this stuff on. There are mechanical fixings as well which will help stick it all to the walls. I imagine you could also put the corner stones over the insulation at the same time as you out the final coat of render on so I don’t think that would be a problem. Good luck!!!!!

I guessed it would be about 25mm and in the end I think it was about 20mm. I think about 10-15mm between the wall and the insulation and then 5-10mm between the insulation and the outside of the final coat of render.

We had ours replaced along with new windows and extended window sills. (You’re going to need to extend your existing window sills in any case to fit over the new insulation)

I did put insulation below the damp course. It’s black though and made of XPS. But I left the vents clear as I think it’s important to let the air circulate in the crawl space in order to keep the floor joists dry and prevent mould and rot. I’d be interested to know if that’s not a concern though

Thanks a lot! It was about £4000 including buying a reciprocating saw and blades and a paddle mixer. I didn’t need to buy the bantam tower though as I could use my dad’s (that had been my granddad’s). That compares to a quote I had of £18k from a professional

@@aktsolar thanks it will soon pay for itself , bills are daft nowadays

You’re absolutely right, you could make this so much lighter and more powerful today and the technology’s constantly improving so there are even better things to come :)

Yes, definitely do one section at a time. For putting the boards up you can do them at your leisure although best not to leave them too long in the rain. For the base coat of render similarly you can do this in strips at your leisure - eg I did it in about ten sections at the back. For the top coat you do need to do each face in one go though. The biggest for me was the back of the house and that took about 4 hours straight work for just one person. Hope this helps :)

Hi, There are air bricks that ventilate the crawl space under the house. I actually improved the air flow into those as the originals had been painted over and were at least half blocked. So I removed the paint that was blocking them and left gaps in the below-damp-course insulation so it did not restrict air flow to them. I then put simple plastic vents over those gaps. The plan is this will give at least as much ventilation as before but keep the underfloor space warmer. So it should be more insulative whilst possibly even increasing the ventilation.

I guess your on your DIY job properly

And room for more solar panels.

That was partly why I did it myself. It was 1/4 of the price to DIY it - and that was using expensive insulation. Also, from having since looked at professionals do it, I took a lot more care to make sure the insulation was well-sealed and met snugly at all joins so it should be significantly more insulative.

I have 10 solar panels not sure what capacity

The boards are not EPS, they’re Kingspan K5. Kingspan K5 is designed to be used as external wall insulation. It’s quite a lot more expensive than EPS but more insulative so 70mm of this is similar to 100mm of EPS. You do have to be a bit more careful when installing than when using EPS as it’s more rigid and so you need to be very careful to make sure there are no gaps between boards. But if you do that, it seems to work very well and gives good insulation for a lower thickness

Yes I did have building control look at it. I was converting my garage at the same time though so they were coming around anyway. I think if you want to get their sign off you just contact them and they’ll be happy to help

@@aktsolar ok great, thanks for the suggestion

We haven’t had any issues since doing the insulation. Before we did it we had some condensation on the wall where the steel beam had been put in above the bifold doors. But after the insulation has been on, that’s not been an issue at all and the walls are much warmer to the touch. In terms of transition with the neighbour, that was really easy as we get on well with them and they plan to put insulation up as well. So I did put a ‘stop bead’ at the transition (and made a video of it which I’ve put on UA-cam). But that probably wasn’t really necessary as they’ll just marry their insulation up with the junction on ours.

I didn’t really remove anything on the exterior wall. Where there was loose pebbledash I cleaned that off. But apart from that I just jet-washed the walls, painted with primer and then started sticking the insulation on

Hi, we haven’t had damp issues and the walls are much warmer than before and still able to breathe on the inside so I think we’ll be okay. Also lots of people down our road have had it done. (All houses are the same style of 1930s house with solid double brick walls and a damp course.) And no-one seems to have any damp issues. With really old houses that have no damp course I would be very hesitant to do this. But with 1930s brick and a damp course underneath it seems fine

You don’t need to ask the council for permission. You should get building control sign off in the UK (and I did) but I think many people do it without involving building control

@@aktsolar thank you for the answer

If you’re relatively handy I’d say it’s definitely okay to do it DIY